After 4 plane flights, 2 trains, multiple cars, rickshaw, boats, walking, after over 15,000 miles of traveling, we are finally home and it feels great. We arrived in Newark early this morning and after a stop at Karen's parents for breakfast, drove home. It was great to see Darwin, Lucy, Spike and Phoenix - they were happy to see us as well. It feels good to be in our house, to take a shower in our own bathroom, to be able to drink the water from the sink!
I had grand intentions of getting a lot of work done on the photos on the 15 hour plane flight home, but that didn't really happen. I will work on them and post them soon I hope.
A couple of funny things that I was going over in my head on the way home that we saw along the way that I thought I'd add here now...
- Cows, goats, ox, chickens, dogs, and most people, do not respond to car horns. That doesn't stop Indians from using them constantly.
- One of our drivers along the way had Celion Dion for his ringtone on his cell phone.
- The sign in Varanasi for "Asian Exterminators" - not sure which way that one goes...are they exterminators from Asia? Exterminating asian insects? Exterminating Asians? Wierd.
- The sign in Bandhavgarh for Bodjet Inn - think it was supposed to be "budget"
- The sense of bewilderment by our "butler" in the lodge at Bandhavgarh that in the U.S. we don't have our own cows or water buffalo for milk. Where else would we get milk from?
- Desserts in India are just plain strange - vermicilli noodles in pudding is not dessert.
- My never ending amazement at watching other travelers in airports act like they've never traveled before - like the woman who tried to walk through security carrying her purse or the other woman who asked the stewardess on the plane if there were assigned seats. (These were not Indians by the way.)
Karen and I have spent the last 16 days together for almost every minute - with the only exception really when using the bathroom or the few times we had to split up for separate male/female security check lines. It has been an adventure that I wouldn't have wanted anyone else with me on.
Will post when the pictures are ready...Karen will sum up the last days of the trip I'm sure.
Thanks for reading along with us.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Friday, November 14, 2008
Likely last post from India
Tonight is probably the last night we will post from in India. Once we get home, we'll likely post some more photos here and then the rest on the photo website. The trip has been interesting and long.
The wildlife here was very good (although not as good as in Africa) - the tigers were amazing to see in the wild. They are majestic animals and hopefully the early start of conservation efforts here will work and maintain the species in the wild and allow them to continue to flourish. It's encouraging that in Bandhavgarh alone there are at least 9 cubs that have almost reached maturity and ready to move out on their own away from their mothers.
The culture here has been quite different to what we are used to or even expected. I'm not sure we knew what to expect. It is interesting and bothersome at the same time on multiple levels. The caste system runs deep here and is difficult to understand, even coming from a country that has its own racial and class divides. Although if our recent election has any bearing, societies are able to overcome these, even if it takes several hundred years. The culture here is ingrained for thousands of years that it will take quite a bit longer to overcome - if ever.
More thoughts on our experience to come. We hope that you have enjoyed following along on our journey. It certainly has been an adventure - much more than any other trip we've done in the past.
Hope everyone is well and we'll talk to you when we get back to the U.S.
The wildlife here was very good (although not as good as in Africa) - the tigers were amazing to see in the wild. They are majestic animals and hopefully the early start of conservation efforts here will work and maintain the species in the wild and allow them to continue to flourish. It's encouraging that in Bandhavgarh alone there are at least 9 cubs that have almost reached maturity and ready to move out on their own away from their mothers.
The culture here has been quite different to what we are used to or even expected. I'm not sure we knew what to expect. It is interesting and bothersome at the same time on multiple levels. The caste system runs deep here and is difficult to understand, even coming from a country that has its own racial and class divides. Although if our recent election has any bearing, societies are able to overcome these, even if it takes several hundred years. The culture here is ingrained for thousands of years that it will take quite a bit longer to overcome - if ever.
More thoughts on our experience to come. We hope that you have enjoyed following along on our journey. It certainly has been an adventure - much more than any other trip we've done in the past.
Hope everyone is well and we'll talk to you when we get back to the U.S.
Varanasi Day Two...Last Full Day in India
We woke up early this morning and headed for the ghats, where we took a row boat along the Ganges, starting from Dassashwamedh Ghat, which has distinctive umbrellas above. While watching the sunrise over the river, we saw people doing laundry in the river, swimming, bathing, dunking, performing rituals, and doing laughing yoga. Among other sights, we saw Lalita Ghat, with a Nepalese Temple; Scindia Ghat, with a partially submerged temple; Harishcandra Ghat, home of a less popular electric crematorium and Assi Ghat, where we started last night. At Manikarnika Ghat, where there are fires and cremations 24 hours a day, there are huge stacks of logs for that purpose. Along the shore, women were doing a ritual that involved vegetables. We passed many people chewing on sticks that are used in lieu of a toothbrush.
We then walked through some of the narrow old streets of Varnasi, which are lined with stores selling things for the rituals in the temples and the streets are littered with cow dung and other icky things. There are small shrines with images of idols, including Shiva and Krishna. Some have only the lingus, a phallic shaped rock, which represents the male form and Shiva himself. We glimpsed at the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, called the Golden Temple because it is plated with 820 kilograms (1,808 pounds) of gold and is dedicated to Shiva. Right next door is Gyanvapi Mosque, with monkeys playing on the rooftops.
We then left the older area of the city, and went to the University area. The University is huge and has over 30,000 students and includes one of two medical schools in India. Men and women have separate dorms and each area of study has its own section of campus. We stopped at a nearby Hindu Temple, with ringing bells and idols.
We ate breakfast and saw an article in the newspaper about yesterday’s festival, called Def Deepavali. After a break at our hotel, we went to the Bharat Mata, or Mother India Temple, which features a relief map of India, representing that the very land of India is sacred. (I don’t even know what to say about the irony of that given the pollution here.) From there, we went to see a demonstration of how some of the silk weaving is done, using some old fashioned looms. This was followed by (don’t be shocked), a persistent sales pitch, which we ignored. We returned to our hotel (I think the guide expected us to be at the silk place for a while shopping) and then a few hours later went to a dance performance. I would have thought that this would have been a show, with other people; however, it was in the courtyard of somebody’s house and was just the two of us, which was kind of awkward. The dancers were very good but, of course, we were offered a sales pitch –to have henna applied this time. The drive back to the hotel featured the legendary traffic and took longer than the entire dance thing.
We are going to have dinner and pack and mentally prepare for our LONG trip home. We leave this hotel around eleven in the morning and fly to Delhi. We have a few hours to waste and then we board the plane home. Jon and I are both looking forward to seeing Phoenix and the doggies and sitting on the couch and doing nothing. I am also looking forward to not being stared at – I have had to resist the urge not to make obscene gestures or faces at those staring and clean laundry. I know we with both appreciate sleeping in our own bed. This trip has been interesting and certainly enlightening about India, the people, and the paradoxes here – but we will be happy to be home….(until the next trip).
We then walked through some of the narrow old streets of Varnasi, which are lined with stores selling things for the rituals in the temples and the streets are littered with cow dung and other icky things. There are small shrines with images of idols, including Shiva and Krishna. Some have only the lingus, a phallic shaped rock, which represents the male form and Shiva himself. We glimpsed at the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, called the Golden Temple because it is plated with 820 kilograms (1,808 pounds) of gold and is dedicated to Shiva. Right next door is Gyanvapi Mosque, with monkeys playing on the rooftops.
We then left the older area of the city, and went to the University area. The University is huge and has over 30,000 students and includes one of two medical schools in India. Men and women have separate dorms and each area of study has its own section of campus. We stopped at a nearby Hindu Temple, with ringing bells and idols.
We ate breakfast and saw an article in the newspaper about yesterday’s festival, called Def Deepavali. After a break at our hotel, we went to the Bharat Mata, or Mother India Temple, which features a relief map of India, representing that the very land of India is sacred. (I don’t even know what to say about the irony of that given the pollution here.) From there, we went to see a demonstration of how some of the silk weaving is done, using some old fashioned looms. This was followed by (don’t be shocked), a persistent sales pitch, which we ignored. We returned to our hotel (I think the guide expected us to be at the silk place for a while shopping) and then a few hours later went to a dance performance. I would have thought that this would have been a show, with other people; however, it was in the courtyard of somebody’s house and was just the two of us, which was kind of awkward. The dancers were very good but, of course, we were offered a sales pitch –to have henna applied this time. The drive back to the hotel featured the legendary traffic and took longer than the entire dance thing.
We are going to have dinner and pack and mentally prepare for our LONG trip home. We leave this hotel around eleven in the morning and fly to Delhi. We have a few hours to waste and then we board the plane home. Jon and I are both looking forward to seeing Phoenix and the doggies and sitting on the couch and doing nothing. I am also looking forward to not being stared at – I have had to resist the urge not to make obscene gestures or faces at those staring and clean laundry. I know we with both appreciate sleeping in our own bed. This trip has been interesting and certainly enlightening about India, the people, and the paradoxes here – but we will be happy to be home….(until the next trip).
Varanasi Photos Night One
Not sure these can really depict the scene in all it's reality and absolute craziness. It was quite spectacular and an experience that we were lucky to have been here for. It seems a regular night on the river is crazy, but during this festival it is multiplied thousands of times over.
Last of the wildlife photos...for now
Here are a few more from our last day at Bandhavgarh...there are many more to come, but will post those when we get home. Other than a couple of crocodile shots, there wasn't much to add from Panna National Park unfortunately.
Enjoy!
Thursday, November 13, 2008
No photos today...hopefully tomorrow
Sorry...but again, it's late and haven't had time to sort through the last couple of days photos. Last night we barely had electricity for lights let alone able to do much on the computer, so I'm a couple of days behind. Hopefully will publish a few tomorrow to go along with the updates.
Varanasi and the Ganges
The start and the end of our day could not be more different. We awoke in the barely habitable Ken’s Lodge, which reminded me a little of summer sleep away camp cabins and headed to Panna National Park by 6:30 am. No, we are not getting a lot of sleep on this trip. Ken’s Lodge included wildlife in the bathroom – we had a yellow frog. The power kept flicking on and off – inevitably when I was in the bathroom or taking a shower. We had a very quiet and very uneventful drive through the park, which was broken up by a short boat ride down the Ken River and a glimpse of a small crocodile. Then, we left Ken’s Lodge (no sorrow there) by ten and went to the airport in Khajaharo, which was surprisingly efficient. Kingfisher Airlines (named after a bird) was also very nice. Upon arrival to Varanasi, we were again submerged into chaos, as there was no system for claiming your bags except for people shoving, shouting in a lot of different languages, pushing and hitting your ankles with luggage carts. A group of Korean women were actually the most vicious. We finally got our bags and went to the hotel, the Taj Ganges, which is a very benign hotel, like any chain in the US.
We arrived at the hotel by 2:15 and were on the way to Saranath by three with our guide, Pradeep. Saranath is the place where Buddha gave his first sermon around 2,500 years ago. There is a hill like structure called Dhamekh Stupa that marks the spot of the sermon that was built at about 500 AD. The sight also has a descendant of the tree under which Buddha received enlightenment and a temple with lovely frescos depicting the life of Buddha. There was a festival there today, where they show a relic, a piece of the collarbone of Buddha, so the place was busy and decorated with flags. Unfortunately, we did not see the bone since it is apparently displayed in the morning. We then went to the museum, which has some very old Buddha statues and the “national symbol of India.” This is a sculpture that depicts a three lions, four other animals important to Buddha, and wheels that once was atop the Ashok pillar. This image is now found on the money in India. It is ironic that a strongly Buddhist symbol is on the money on an overwhelmingly Hindu country.
We then went back to Varanasi to the ghats along the river Ganges. Varanasi, also known as Benares, is a holy city where the “eternal light of Shiva intersects the earth.” Located at the intersection of two rivers, the earliest records of the city go back 8,000 years. Hindus believe that sins are erased by washing in the Ganges River. The ghats are steps that descend to the river against a background of 18th and 19th century temples and palaces. Many are used for cremations. The dead are brought to the river, water is splashed on them, then they are placed into the fires before the ashes are returned to the river. It is a little creepy that you can make out human parts in the fires and the place does not smell like burning flesh as much as I thought it would.
Today was a festival and the place was mobbed. There were thousands of people (I am not exaggerating) on the ghats, with music playing, shows and performances, fireworks and hundreds of candles lit along the steps. Due to traffic, we parked a few blocks away and walked to the steps. We don’t even want to think of the tobacco spit, urine (animal and human), excrement, and other gross stuff we walked through. Jon has declared that his shoes are staying here in India. We arrived at the waterfront just as it was getting dark and they were finishing setting up the candles in small clay pots. A helicopter passed overhead dropping millions of marigold petals, which fell like rain. We got on a wooden boat and cruised the Ganges, trying to take in the sights. It looked gorgeous all lit up with the candles. People float little cardboard boats with candles and marigold petals on the river. The buildings are draped with strings of electric lights. The fireworks light up the skies and candles and cremation fires light up the shores. The sounds of the people, music, bells, prayers, and fireworks are deafening. I am really not sure how to describe the experience….but hopefully, Jon’s photos will be able to give you some small taste.
Tomorrow, we are up at five in the morning and will return to the ghats for another look in different light and to watch devotees bathe in the river.
We arrived at the hotel by 2:15 and were on the way to Saranath by three with our guide, Pradeep. Saranath is the place where Buddha gave his first sermon around 2,500 years ago. There is a hill like structure called Dhamekh Stupa that marks the spot of the sermon that was built at about 500 AD. The sight also has a descendant of the tree under which Buddha received enlightenment and a temple with lovely frescos depicting the life of Buddha. There was a festival there today, where they show a relic, a piece of the collarbone of Buddha, so the place was busy and decorated with flags. Unfortunately, we did not see the bone since it is apparently displayed in the morning. We then went to the museum, which has some very old Buddha statues and the “national symbol of India.” This is a sculpture that depicts a three lions, four other animals important to Buddha, and wheels that once was atop the Ashok pillar. This image is now found on the money in India. It is ironic that a strongly Buddhist symbol is on the money on an overwhelmingly Hindu country.
We then went back to Varanasi to the ghats along the river Ganges. Varanasi, also known as Benares, is a holy city where the “eternal light of Shiva intersects the earth.” Located at the intersection of two rivers, the earliest records of the city go back 8,000 years. Hindus believe that sins are erased by washing in the Ganges River. The ghats are steps that descend to the river against a background of 18th and 19th century temples and palaces. Many are used for cremations. The dead are brought to the river, water is splashed on them, then they are placed into the fires before the ashes are returned to the river. It is a little creepy that you can make out human parts in the fires and the place does not smell like burning flesh as much as I thought it would.
Today was a festival and the place was mobbed. There were thousands of people (I am not exaggerating) on the ghats, with music playing, shows and performances, fireworks and hundreds of candles lit along the steps. Due to traffic, we parked a few blocks away and walked to the steps. We don’t even want to think of the tobacco spit, urine (animal and human), excrement, and other gross stuff we walked through. Jon has declared that his shoes are staying here in India. We arrived at the waterfront just as it was getting dark and they were finishing setting up the candles in small clay pots. A helicopter passed overhead dropping millions of marigold petals, which fell like rain. We got on a wooden boat and cruised the Ganges, trying to take in the sights. It looked gorgeous all lit up with the candles. People float little cardboard boats with candles and marigold petals on the river. The buildings are draped with strings of electric lights. The fireworks light up the skies and candles and cremation fires light up the shores. The sounds of the people, music, bells, prayers, and fireworks are deafening. I am really not sure how to describe the experience….but hopefully, Jon’s photos will be able to give you some small taste.
Tomorrow, we are up at five in the morning and will return to the ghats for another look in different light and to watch devotees bathe in the river.
Leaving Bandhavgarh...sadly. From luxury camp to Ken River Camp...
This morning, we went on a short drive into the park in order to leave in time to have an afternoon game drive at Panna. The lesson of the day is that persistence pays off as we had our best sighting yet. We went back to the area we went to yesterday and heard alarm calls. Suddenly, the forest was alive with noise – monkeys shaking the tree tops and making low grunts, the sambar making a terrific low trumpeting, and the spotted deer with their higher pitched cries. Then, we saw a female tiger through the woods… and she was with three cubs, who are about a year old and not quite full sized. We had a nice view of one cub – probably the smallest of the three and a female – sitting under a palm front. There were glimpses of the other tigers though the trees. The one sitting suddenly stood up. Then, the mother was crossing the road, just in front of us. She stopped after crossing the road and looked back. One cub went running across and into the woods on the other side. Then, after a few second pause, the other two, including a larger male cub, ran towards their mother and with a growl disappeared into the woods. They were gone very quickly leaving only the monkeys calling in their wake. It was so fast but the tigers are amazingly elegant and powerful all at once, It was really the perfect end to our stay at Bandhavgarh.
Upon arriving back at the lodge, the people were wonderful again. They made a special fast breakfast for us, all came out to say goodbye, and even packed a little lunch for the car. The stay there was definitely the best part of the trip.
The drive to Panna was less great and I can now say that I have thrown up on six different continents. Thank goodness for Zofran. We arrived at Ken’s River Lodge, which is definitely less than stellar. I can’t really even say that this place is particularly clean. We met two guides from the as-of-yet-not-open CC Africa Lodge in Panna and went on a game drive. We did not see too much that was different. We saw two female blue bulls and heard a leopard calling. Then, we arrived back to Ken’s lodge and are going to see what is edible for dinner.
Upon arriving back at the lodge, the people were wonderful again. They made a special fast breakfast for us, all came out to say goodbye, and even packed a little lunch for the car. The stay there was definitely the best part of the trip.
The drive to Panna was less great and I can now say that I have thrown up on six different continents. Thank goodness for Zofran. We arrived at Ken’s River Lodge, which is definitely less than stellar. I can’t really even say that this place is particularly clean. We met two guides from the as-of-yet-not-open CC Africa Lodge in Panna and went on a game drive. We did not see too much that was different. We saw two female blue bulls and heard a leopard calling. Then, we arrived back to Ken’s lodge and are going to see what is edible for dinner.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Moving on...
Tomorrow morning we move on from Bandhavgarh to Panna National Park and another camp. We don't know what the internet access will be like, but we hope to at least have access again by the next (and last stop) in Varanasi. Keep checking...we'll post when we are able.
Bandhavgarh Day Three
On this morning’s drive, we saw a crested serpent eagle and a huge lovely sambar. We heard several monkeys and spotted deer making alarm calls but we could not locate the tiger. I think we were probably very close but did not have any luck spotting it.
Later in the morning, we were able to ride elephants to see tigers. The mahoots find the tigers using the elephants and then your car gets a number to take turns going to see the tiger. When it is your turn, you park along the side of the dirt roads that run through the park, and climb onto the highest part of the vehicle to then climb on the elephant. Obviously, they only do this when the tigers are found and they are in a fairly accessible spot. Then, the elephants walk to where the tigers are and allow you to have a look before it is the next people’s turn.
We saw two male tiger cubs that are approximately 18 months old and nearly full size. One is particularly huge and has massive paws and shoulders. They were just resting in a shady area. What is amazing is that these two tigers were not very far off the road and we would have never spotted them. The other interesting thing is how little the tigers and elephants react to one another. The tigers do not seem bothered by the elephants at all, even when they are pulling down branches and bamboo to munch on. The elephants seem to care less about the tigers and will calmly walk very close – although they also are very mellow about the cars. After maybe ten minutes, we climbed back off the elephant onto our car and headed out of the park. On the way, we saw a nice group of rhesus monkeys.
When we arrived back at the lodge, we went to the garden area to watch butterflies, were we saw at least six or seven different species. One, called a jay, is lime green with black markings. Bayonettes, which are orange and black and resemble monarchs, and grass yellow butterflies are common. Hopefully some stayed still enough for Jon to photograph them.
We are taking a break before lunch and then will go on our last afternoon drive here.
Apparently, we are in good company traveling in India. It appears that some Belgian royalty was in Delhi at our hotel when we were there, which explains the metal detectors and why they searched our bags when we entered the hotel. Bill Gates was in Agra when we were there. The Gates Foundation is setting up some kind of program here to eradicate polio. Art Wolfe, who is apparently some famous photographer (Jon knows more), arrives here at Bandhavgarh tomorrow…I think Jon is a little sad to be missing him.
I don’t want to sound like an advertisement but I did want to talk a little about our lodge, which is a joint venture between Taj, an Indian hotel group, and CC Africa. The have a very nice philosophy about eco-tourism and protecting nature. In addition, they try very much to give back to the community and have the people locally recognize that protecting the environment is not at odds with economic development. The company has supported the local area with initiatives at a local level, like by installing some solar lights at public places, like the water pump. Guests can purchase school bags, which are put together here and then delivered to the local schoolchildren and they sponsor trips into the park to see the wildlife for the local schools. CC Africa, which obviously has lodges in Africa, now has five or six sites in India, which will be connected by small plane in the near future, and is apparently expanding to South America. Needless to say, Jon and I are big fans of this type of responsible eco-tourism and the local initiatives.
Another nice thing is that the staff is encouraged to talk with the guests, which allows us to learn interesting things about India and for them to learn about other countries. We had an interesting talk last night with our waiter, who is from a village just outside of Delhi, where we learned that cow and water buffalo cheese are commonly eaten but goat cheese is not, despite the prominence of goats. He was surprised to learn that it is not common for the average family to own their own cow in the US. The guides and camp manager also commonly eats dinners with the guests and the coversation has included topics as diverse as Obama, cameras, and cricket.
Later in the morning, we were able to ride elephants to see tigers. The mahoots find the tigers using the elephants and then your car gets a number to take turns going to see the tiger. When it is your turn, you park along the side of the dirt roads that run through the park, and climb onto the highest part of the vehicle to then climb on the elephant. Obviously, they only do this when the tigers are found and they are in a fairly accessible spot. Then, the elephants walk to where the tigers are and allow you to have a look before it is the next people’s turn.
We saw two male tiger cubs that are approximately 18 months old and nearly full size. One is particularly huge and has massive paws and shoulders. They were just resting in a shady area. What is amazing is that these two tigers were not very far off the road and we would have never spotted them. The other interesting thing is how little the tigers and elephants react to one another. The tigers do not seem bothered by the elephants at all, even when they are pulling down branches and bamboo to munch on. The elephants seem to care less about the tigers and will calmly walk very close – although they also are very mellow about the cars. After maybe ten minutes, we climbed back off the elephant onto our car and headed out of the park. On the way, we saw a nice group of rhesus monkeys.
When we arrived back at the lodge, we went to the garden area to watch butterflies, were we saw at least six or seven different species. One, called a jay, is lime green with black markings. Bayonettes, which are orange and black and resemble monarchs, and grass yellow butterflies are common. Hopefully some stayed still enough for Jon to photograph them.
We are taking a break before lunch and then will go on our last afternoon drive here.
Apparently, we are in good company traveling in India. It appears that some Belgian royalty was in Delhi at our hotel when we were there, which explains the metal detectors and why they searched our bags when we entered the hotel. Bill Gates was in Agra when we were there. The Gates Foundation is setting up some kind of program here to eradicate polio. Art Wolfe, who is apparently some famous photographer (Jon knows more), arrives here at Bandhavgarh tomorrow…I think Jon is a little sad to be missing him.
I don’t want to sound like an advertisement but I did want to talk a little about our lodge, which is a joint venture between Taj, an Indian hotel group, and CC Africa. The have a very nice philosophy about eco-tourism and protecting nature. In addition, they try very much to give back to the community and have the people locally recognize that protecting the environment is not at odds with economic development. The company has supported the local area with initiatives at a local level, like by installing some solar lights at public places, like the water pump. Guests can purchase school bags, which are put together here and then delivered to the local schoolchildren and they sponsor trips into the park to see the wildlife for the local schools. CC Africa, which obviously has lodges in Africa, now has five or six sites in India, which will be connected by small plane in the near future, and is apparently expanding to South America. Needless to say, Jon and I are big fans of this type of responsible eco-tourism and the local initiatives.
Another nice thing is that the staff is encouraged to talk with the guests, which allows us to learn interesting things about India and for them to learn about other countries. We had an interesting talk last night with our waiter, who is from a village just outside of Delhi, where we learned that cow and water buffalo cheese are commonly eaten but goat cheese is not, despite the prominence of goats. He was surprised to learn that it is not common for the average family to own their own cow in the US. The guides and camp manager also commonly eats dinners with the guests and the coversation has included topics as diverse as Obama, cameras, and cricket.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Sorry, no photos today...
So, no new photos for today. There wasn't much as Karen mentioned - just some birds mostly. I took pictures of them, but they are not great. I will try and post some tomorrow - hopefully, there'll be some tiger sightings!
Change in plans again...we are not going to Panna tomorrow. We are going to stay in Bandhavgarh one more day and then go from there to Panna the day after, then continue on the regular itinerary from there. The viewing here is supposed to be better than in Panna. We'll see how tomorrow's drives go!
Change in plans again...we are not going to Panna tomorrow. We are going to stay in Bandhavgarh one more day and then go from there to Panna the day after, then continue on the regular itinerary from there. The viewing here is supposed to be better than in Panna. We'll see how tomorrow's drives go!
Bandhavgarh Day Two
Dinner last night was a traditional thalli – small portions of a few different Indian dishes with rice in the middle. Around the lodge, there were some spotted deer and wild boar in the grasses as we walked back to our cabin.
Today, we went to a different quiet section of the park. The game viewing was sparse – just a few spotted deer and some wild boar – but the scenery is lovely. We saw some nice birds, including a bright yellow oriole, and there are lots of butterflies. It was quiet – just the birds and some calls of some distant langur monkeys.
In the afternoon, we went to the fort on the hill that has the same name as the National Park. The legend is that Lord Rama defeated a dragon or serpent and the hill was such a good look out that he gave it to his brother to look over the area. The word Bandhavgarh means “brother fort.” There are the ruins of the fort at the top of the hill and the oldest parts are thought to be 2000 years old. There are some lovely carvings and some statues of the re-incarnations of Vishnu. The best part is the view of the surrounding park, which is amazing. Unfortunately, the wild life was sparse again. We did see the impressive Malabar pied hornbill and some flying long billed vultures but other than that, it was quiet. We are realizing more and more how lucky we were to spot tigers on the first day!
Today, we went to a different quiet section of the park. The game viewing was sparse – just a few spotted deer and some wild boar – but the scenery is lovely. We saw some nice birds, including a bright yellow oriole, and there are lots of butterflies. It was quiet – just the birds and some calls of some distant langur monkeys.
In the afternoon, we went to the fort on the hill that has the same name as the National Park. The legend is that Lord Rama defeated a dragon or serpent and the hill was such a good look out that he gave it to his brother to look over the area. The word Bandhavgarh means “brother fort.” There are the ruins of the fort at the top of the hill and the oldest parts are thought to be 2000 years old. There are some lovely carvings and some statues of the re-incarnations of Vishnu. The best part is the view of the surrounding park, which is amazing. Unfortunately, the wild life was sparse again. We did see the impressive Malabar pied hornbill and some flying long billed vultures but other than that, it was quiet. We are realizing more and more how lucky we were to spot tigers on the first day!
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Bandhavgarh Day Two Photos...No Tigers!
The tiger shots from today's brief viewing are not very good, so will not post. There will be more tigers and other wildlife shots when I post them on the photo site. This is not the best place for them and it takes a long time to upload to this site. Enjoy!
Bandhavgarh Day Two
We woke up early this morning and went back to Bandhavgarh Park. The drive was lovely and the scenery is gorgeous. It is mostly forest of Mahua trees (after which the lodge is named) and bamboo interspersed with some meadows with wonderful tall grasses. One grass is particularly visually striking and has a white feather-like plume on top. We saw several spotted deer, some bird species, and a glimpse of a male tiger.
We returned to the lodge after about four hours and the chef gave us some information on lentils and the different varieties. We then went out to his garden and sampled a fresh radish – which is long and white as opposed to round and purple-ish. We went for a short walk to a waterhole area and watched some birds including a elegant looking white egret and a large wooly necked stork. Next, we had a lunch of some Indian food and we leave soon for an afternoon adventure where we should be able to get close to some Asian elephants…
More when we get back….(PS: Jodi – I tried to answer some of your questions on the blog).
This afternoon, we went to a separate part of the national park that is to the north a little bit. The land is scarred from areas that they have burned to try to eradicate the Lantana plant, which is a non-native invasive species. They are starting a new program where you can ride an elephant through this section of the park. Today is the first day that the elephants carried tourists. He was previously used to track tigers in the forest. The elephants are smaller in size from African elephants with smaller ears. They use a saddle that consists of padding from burlap stuffed with hemp and then a platform on top of that, which is secured with rope. Seeing the forest from the back of an elephant is a totally different perspective. We saw a blue bull, which is rare in this area, more langur monkeys, a glimpse of some wild boar, and some rhesus monkeys. The elephant just knocks over small trees to create a path to walk on and snatches bits of bamboo to eat as we were walking. We got a close up look at some of the gigantic spider webs, many of which are right at elephant back height. The ride was enjoyable but it was sad at the end of the day to see this obviously intelligent animal placed in chains for the night.
We have just returned to the hotel and we are going to try to post some of this before dinner. This lodge continues to be lovely with attention paid to all of the small details. This morning, it was a little chilly (maybe sixty degrees but the people around here seen to think that is very cold); so there were hot water bottles for us in the safari vehicle. More soon…
We returned to the lodge after about four hours and the chef gave us some information on lentils and the different varieties. We then went out to his garden and sampled a fresh radish – which is long and white as opposed to round and purple-ish. We went for a short walk to a waterhole area and watched some birds including a elegant looking white egret and a large wooly necked stork. Next, we had a lunch of some Indian food and we leave soon for an afternoon adventure where we should be able to get close to some Asian elephants…
More when we get back….(PS: Jodi – I tried to answer some of your questions on the blog).
This afternoon, we went to a separate part of the national park that is to the north a little bit. The land is scarred from areas that they have burned to try to eradicate the Lantana plant, which is a non-native invasive species. They are starting a new program where you can ride an elephant through this section of the park. Today is the first day that the elephants carried tourists. He was previously used to track tigers in the forest. The elephants are smaller in size from African elephants with smaller ears. They use a saddle that consists of padding from burlap stuffed with hemp and then a platform on top of that, which is secured with rope. Seeing the forest from the back of an elephant is a totally different perspective. We saw a blue bull, which is rare in this area, more langur monkeys, a glimpse of some wild boar, and some rhesus monkeys. The elephant just knocks over small trees to create a path to walk on and snatches bits of bamboo to eat as we were walking. We got a close up look at some of the gigantic spider webs, many of which are right at elephant back height. The ride was enjoyable but it was sad at the end of the day to see this obviously intelligent animal placed in chains for the night.
We have just returned to the hotel and we are going to try to post some of this before dinner. This lodge continues to be lovely with attention paid to all of the small details. This morning, it was a little chilly (maybe sixty degrees but the people around here seen to think that is very cold); so there were hot water bottles for us in the safari vehicle. More soon…
From Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh National Park
This morning we had a little bit of a bumpy start. We left Khajuraho at about seven for the very long drive to Bandhavgarh National Park. The road wound through some agricultural areas and fortunately, the car traffic decreased. The roads are paved, but narrow, only one car width across, which makes it rather interesting when you pass by a truck, called a “tata.” Some areas are very scarred with potholes and very bumpy. We arrived at King’s Lodge without incident, checked into our room and went for a walk. However, when we returned to the lodge, we discovered that there had been a last minute change of plan. We were supposed to stay at a CC Africa Lodge in Panna, our next stop, but the lodge has not been completely built yet, so they moved us to the CC Africa Lodge here in Bandhavgarh and we will have another lodge in Panna. We were instructed that a car was on its way to get us and we should get our bags. So after eating a quick lunch, we went immediately to the CC Africa Lodge, called Mahau Kothi and then out for a game drive. It was a confusing morning and we felt bad leaving the Kings Lodge in such a rushed manner.
We were very very very fortunate because on our first game drive we saw a tiger! In the area where we were today, there is a mother tiger and three cubs, which are about 16 months old. The cubs are almost fully grown but are still learning to hunt on their own and will remain with their mother for two or two and a half years. We caught a glimpse of the mother and then waited in the same area hoping to catch another glimpse of her. However, a female cub came wandering down to the bank of the creek that we were parked near, had a sip of water, and then proceeded to sit in the water to cool down for a few minutes. She was really very close and we knew we were seeing something special when the naturalists started getting excited. The tigress then got up and just disappeared into the forest. It was incredible. She moved silently, and is pure muscle. The paws are huge. I simply can not describe the experience but it was amazing.
We also saw some other wildlife including langur monkeys, spotted deer, sambur (another large deer species), wild boar and several bird species. There are also some huge spiders here. They are the size of my hand and make webs that are 6-8 feet wide. Thankfully, they are not poisonous. Needless to say, it was an exciting afternoon and our fingers are crossed that the rest of our game drives will be as good.
The hotel that we are at now, Mahua Kothi, is lovely. The service is wonderful – the people have learned our names and when we returned to our room this evening a HOT bath was waiting for us sprinkled with marigold petals. Our naturalist is very good. He has a masters in ecology and is in the area working on a project to re-introduce wild guar (a kind of huge buffalo) to the area. We had a “bush” dinner prepared in a tandor (clay oven heated with a charcoal fire) and on a grill at a table set up in the middle of a field under a tree lit with lanterns. The scene was fantastic. The chef even gave us a brief demonstration on how naan (Indian flat bread) is cooked. There are only two other couples here – one from England and one from Paris – so it is really very intimate. This is my kind of lodge and I could get used to this!
It is now late at night and we start our first game drive at six in the morning so I am off to sleep. It appears that we will have some internet access here but not likely at our next stop at Panna National Park. Enjoy Jon’s great tiger photos!
We were very very very fortunate because on our first game drive we saw a tiger! In the area where we were today, there is a mother tiger and three cubs, which are about 16 months old. The cubs are almost fully grown but are still learning to hunt on their own and will remain with their mother for two or two and a half years. We caught a glimpse of the mother and then waited in the same area hoping to catch another glimpse of her. However, a female cub came wandering down to the bank of the creek that we were parked near, had a sip of water, and then proceeded to sit in the water to cool down for a few minutes. She was really very close and we knew we were seeing something special when the naturalists started getting excited. The tigress then got up and just disappeared into the forest. It was incredible. She moved silently, and is pure muscle. The paws are huge. I simply can not describe the experience but it was amazing.
We also saw some other wildlife including langur monkeys, spotted deer, sambur (another large deer species), wild boar and several bird species. There are also some huge spiders here. They are the size of my hand and make webs that are 6-8 feet wide. Thankfully, they are not poisonous. Needless to say, it was an exciting afternoon and our fingers are crossed that the rest of our game drives will be as good.
The hotel that we are at now, Mahua Kothi, is lovely. The service is wonderful – the people have learned our names and when we returned to our room this evening a HOT bath was waiting for us sprinkled with marigold petals. Our naturalist is very good. He has a masters in ecology and is in the area working on a project to re-introduce wild guar (a kind of huge buffalo) to the area. We had a “bush” dinner prepared in a tandor (clay oven heated with a charcoal fire) and on a grill at a table set up in the middle of a field under a tree lit with lanterns. The scene was fantastic. The chef even gave us a brief demonstration on how naan (Indian flat bread) is cooked. There are only two other couples here – one from England and one from Paris – so it is really very intimate. This is my kind of lodge and I could get used to this!
It is now late at night and we start our first game drive at six in the morning so I am off to sleep. It appears that we will have some internet access here but not likely at our next stop at Panna National Park. Enjoy Jon’s great tiger photos!
Friday, November 7, 2008
Khajuraho
Legend says that the Moon God fell in love with a maiden called Hemavati as she bathed in a river and they had a passionate affair. Before he returned to the celestial realm, he swore she would have a son who would build a temple that commemorated their “divine love.” This son was the founder of the Chandela dynasty whose kings were in the area from 900-1100 and there were 85 temples built at this sight. The temples were abandoned and forgotten until a British soldier/adventurer found them in 1838. Only 22 of these temples survive and are grouped into southern, eastern and western groups. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage sight is best known for the taboo breaking erotic sculptures.
Our guide for the day was Aloop, who was probably our best guide so far. He works part time as a writer for cartoon strips and comic books. He was excellent at telling the history but also letting us have some time to wander by ourselves, take photos, and just enjoy the atmosphere. This was the first time that I never felt rushed on by the guide… although, he did ask (just once though) if we wanted to visit such-and-such local store.
The temples are carved from local sandstone and follow the same basic design: they look like mountains (the home of the gods); are on a platform; have an entrance area and an inner sanctum with the statue of the god to whom the temple is dedicated. We began the day in the Western group of temples, which includes a functioning temple called Matangeshvar Temple. Of note, Varaha mandap has a large stone sculpture of Varha, the incarnation of Vishnu as a boar, which is carved with the images of hundreds of Brahman deities. The other large temples, including Lakshmana and Kandariya, are elaborately decorated with thousands of figures depicting the Hindu deities and images of daily life including women looking into mirrors, hunters on horseback, musicians, women removing thorns from their feet, women applying make-up, elephants, and, of course, the amorous images the temples are famous for. The sheer number of statues as well as the detail and variety of depictions are amazing. The Nandi pavilion has a statue of Nandi the bull, a companion of Shiva. There are also several lion depictions, which was the image associated with the Chandela kings. The statues are done in incredible detail and the sheer number of images is overwhelming. Interestingly, each block was signed by the artist so that they could get paid for their work. Thousands of people helped carve and create these temples. It is the kind of place that you could walk around for days and still find new depictions on every building.
We then had a good lunch at a restaurant called Sidartha and then back to the hotel for a short period of time. In the afternoon, we went to the smallest group of temples, the Southern group; which are more like single temples that you have to drive to. The Duladeo Temple is dedicated to Shiva with carvings that include crocodile riding figures and images from the wedding of Shiva and Parvati. The Chaturbhuj Temple has a statue of Vishnu. Between the temples, we caught some glimpses of people in their daily lives – women carrying bundles of twigs, young boys playing cricket, some toddlers playing in the dust in front of their dwelling, young girls in uniform at a local school, women pumping water and then carrying water home in large metal vessels on their heads, pigs rooting in the trash, men carrying bundles and cows and water buffalo grazing in the fields.
Early tomorrow morning, we leave at seven in the morning for a six hour drive to Bandhavgarh National Park, which is 168 square miles and home to approximately 70 tigers. Keep your fingers crossed that we will see some! We do not expect there to be internet service there… so I am not sure when our next post will be.
Our guide for the day was Aloop, who was probably our best guide so far. He works part time as a writer for cartoon strips and comic books. He was excellent at telling the history but also letting us have some time to wander by ourselves, take photos, and just enjoy the atmosphere. This was the first time that I never felt rushed on by the guide… although, he did ask (just once though) if we wanted to visit such-and-such local store.
The temples are carved from local sandstone and follow the same basic design: they look like mountains (the home of the gods); are on a platform; have an entrance area and an inner sanctum with the statue of the god to whom the temple is dedicated. We began the day in the Western group of temples, which includes a functioning temple called Matangeshvar Temple. Of note, Varaha mandap has a large stone sculpture of Varha, the incarnation of Vishnu as a boar, which is carved with the images of hundreds of Brahman deities. The other large temples, including Lakshmana and Kandariya, are elaborately decorated with thousands of figures depicting the Hindu deities and images of daily life including women looking into mirrors, hunters on horseback, musicians, women removing thorns from their feet, women applying make-up, elephants, and, of course, the amorous images the temples are famous for. The sheer number of statues as well as the detail and variety of depictions are amazing. The Nandi pavilion has a statue of Nandi the bull, a companion of Shiva. There are also several lion depictions, which was the image associated with the Chandela kings. The statues are done in incredible detail and the sheer number of images is overwhelming. Interestingly, each block was signed by the artist so that they could get paid for their work. Thousands of people helped carve and create these temples. It is the kind of place that you could walk around for days and still find new depictions on every building.
We then had a good lunch at a restaurant called Sidartha and then back to the hotel for a short period of time. In the afternoon, we went to the smallest group of temples, the Southern group; which are more like single temples that you have to drive to. The Duladeo Temple is dedicated to Shiva with carvings that include crocodile riding figures and images from the wedding of Shiva and Parvati. The Chaturbhuj Temple has a statue of Vishnu. Between the temples, we caught some glimpses of people in their daily lives – women carrying bundles of twigs, young boys playing cricket, some toddlers playing in the dust in front of their dwelling, young girls in uniform at a local school, women pumping water and then carrying water home in large metal vessels on their heads, pigs rooting in the trash, men carrying bundles and cows and water buffalo grazing in the fields.
Early tomorrow morning, we leave at seven in the morning for a six hour drive to Bandhavgarh National Park, which is 168 square miles and home to approximately 70 tigers. Keep your fingers crossed that we will see some! We do not expect there to be internet service there… so I am not sure when our next post will be.
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