The photo site has been updated - click on the link on the right side of the screen. There are photos from this trip and Peru that were added finally.
Enjoy!
Monday, July 26, 2010
Monday, May 24, 2010
What we have learned in Borneo...
1. Hot is hot. In Borneo, it is hot and humid. You sweat within two minutes of getting out of the shower. You do not get more used to this as the days go on. Clothes can get really wet when you sweat this much. And smell.
2. Desserts in Malaysia are just not that good. The specialty appears to be a gelatinous molds of varying colors and shapes - green tends to be a popular choice.
3. It is possible to eat rice at every single meal – even breakfast.
4. Even Martha Stewart wears leech socks when necessary, of course very stylishly.
2. Desserts in Malaysia are just not that good. The specialty appears to be a gelatinous molds of varying colors and shapes - green tends to be a popular choice.
3. It is possible to eat rice at every single meal – even breakfast.
4. Even Martha Stewart wears leech socks when necessary, of course very stylishly.
Last day in the rainforest...with Martha Stewart
Today included a pre-breakfast walk and a post breakfast walk. The pre-breakfast walk was an attempt to find some gibbons that you could hear nearby, but was unsuccessful as they moved on before we could get to the spot.
On the post breakfast walk, again the gibbons had been spotted by another guide, so we set off to find them. We went off trail in a scramble up the muddy, steep hill, to get to the spot where they were reported to be. This was a difficult uphill hike (reminescent of the gorilla trekking in Uganda) to finally arrive where we wanted to be. What did we find? Well, gibbons, of course, but Martha Stewart, her niece, Sophie, and another woman traveling with her (and their "pack" of guides)! It turns out, she is quite friendly and pleasant. She was taking pictures (and making some unusual monkey-like noises at the gibbons - which are apes, not monkeys, by the way) and then got out her video camera and started interview the guides, and then us too.
She said she'd post some on her blog - we'll see.
Photos of Martha in her leach socks on the canopy walk can be seen on her Twitter page. After lunch, Martha (yes, we are now on a first name basis) personally bid us goodbye, before our long, bouncy car ride on the unpaved logging road back to Latum Datu, where we boarded the propeller plane back to Kota Kinabalu. The plane not only left early, but when we arrived back and disembarked down the stairs onto the runway, they were waiting with umbrellas for our short walk to the airport building since it was drizzling.
We arrived back at the air conditioned Shangri La and had dinner of grilled seafood overlooking the South China sea. After a long shower, we will be going to sleep, in the air conditioned room. Tomorrow morning we leave for our LONG flight back home.
Night Walking
Tonight, we went out for a second night walk. Last night, we basically stayed on the road and the well marked paths close to the lodge area. Tonight, we ventured into the real jungle area. Our faithful guide, Sylvester, who up until now tolerated our goofing around and stupid questions well, pulled us together and gave us a little speech that, whether it was designed to or not, sufficiently scared us into our best behavior. It basically boiled down to this: "We are going into the primary rainforest in the dark. There are leopards, bears, and poisonous snakes and insects. I have not weapon with me. So, stay close and be quiet."
We saw some insects, a very large scorpion, a tarantula, a flying lizard, multiple strange and large spiders, and the biggest find of the night was the Bornean Horned Frog. This, apparently, is one of the holy grails of the night search among the guides and promted Sylvester to get on the radio and raise every person walking out there. This included the large Martha Stewart entourage (minus Martha for some reason).
On the way back to the lodge, we found a large green tree snake (fortunately in the tree) and then returned to our cabins for shower #3 of the day and sleeping.
We saw some insects, a very large scorpion, a tarantula, a flying lizard, multiple strange and large spiders, and the biggest find of the night was the Bornean Horned Frog. This, apparently, is one of the holy grails of the night search among the guides and promted Sylvester to get on the radio and raise every person walking out there. This included the large Martha Stewart entourage (minus Martha for some reason).
On the way back to the lodge, we found a large green tree snake (fortunately in the tree) and then returned to our cabins for shower #3 of the day and sleeping.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Danum Valley Day 3
After waking again to the calls of gibbons, we had breakfast and a later start for a walk. We saw trees studded with stag leaf ferns and draped with rattan and other vines. Lichen and moss hangs from the trees like tinsel. We saw a rhinoceros hornbill fly very close to us with a swishing noise of the large wings. As we returned to the lodge, we saw a wild orangutan very close to the lodge. It was fairly low in a tree and as we watched, she ate some young leaves and bark, and then crossed right above our heads and disappeared higher into a tree and deeper into the forest. After our post walk shower, we met in the lounge for lunch. On this trip, we have not seen another American; however, apparently Martha Stewart checked into the lodge we are at today, so we may meet another person from the USA.
After lunch, we walked IN the Danum River for a while to get another perspective. After shower #2 for the day, we are now in the lounge before dinner.
Interesting Fact: Hornbills mate for life.
After lunch, we walked IN the Danum River for a while to get another perspective. After shower #2 for the day, we are now in the lounge before dinner.
Interesting Fact: Hornbills mate for life.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Danum Valley Day 2
After a night sleeping while listening to the cicadas, we awoke at dawn to the sounds of gibbons calling and set out for a pre-breakfast walk on suspended canopy bridges and platforms high in the treetops. In the early morning mist, the area looks particularly like Jurassic Park. After a bird’s eye view of the rainforest, we returned for breakfast, accompanied by a rhinoceros beetle, and then set out on a very hot four hour hike. We walked 375 meters up to an area where 350 years ago members of the Sapain tribe buried their chiefs. There is an ironwood coffin and natural holes in the cliff face where the bones were placed. Continuing up the hill, we arrived at two viewing platforms, which overlook the lodge and the rainforest. We saw a perrigrin falcon surveying the forest as well. After a steep and slippery descent, we arrived at Fairy Waterfalls, where we paused to admire the water streaming down the face of the rock. We then crossed two streams and arrived at Jacuzzi pools, where Ruth, Jon and Rich took a dip in the cool pool of water along with the nibbling fish. Arriving back at the lodge, we wrung out our sweat soaked clothing and took a shower before enjoying lunch.
After a rest in the “pillow lounge” after lunch, we set out on our afternoon hike, where we saw crested hornbills, bright red trogon birds, and some squirrels. The walk took us along the banks of the Danum River. After the second shower of the day, we went for dinner. After dinner, we will take a night walk in search of the elusive clouded leopard...more later!
After a rest in the “pillow lounge” after lunch, we set out on our afternoon hike, where we saw crested hornbills, bright red trogon birds, and some squirrels. The walk took us along the banks of the Danum River. After the second shower of the day, we went for dinner. After dinner, we will take a night walk in search of the elusive clouded leopard...more later!
Leeches...
The most important thing to do when you arrive at this lodge is to purchase leech socks, which are knee high socks that go over your socks and pants but in your hiking shoes to prevent the leeches from climbing up your pant legs. This attire is highly suggested for the hikes here. There are three types of lecches here: brown, black and tiger (brown on top, orange striped).
Jonathan was the first person to donate blood to the Danum River leeches as one attached onto his stomach as we were hiking.
Interesting fact: To remove a leech - rub it and then flick it.
Tiger Leech:
Jonathan was the first person to donate blood to the Danum River leeches as one attached onto his stomach as we were hiking.
Interesting fact: To remove a leech - rub it and then flick it.
Tiger Leech:
Travel to Danum Valley
We left the Kinabatangan River Lodge early and drove to Latum Datu, where we switched cars and drove to the Danum Valley Conservation Area. On the first part of the drive, the road is paved and mile after mile of land is palm oil plantation where the rainforest has been cleared away. The second part of the drive was along a bumpy unpaved logging road, which passes through secondary (previously logged and regrown) forest and primary forest areas. Sadly, we passed dozens of trucks carrying logs from the rainforest. It is disheartening to see such beautiful pristine areas destroyed. Hopefully, tourism to this area will help heighten awareness of the need to protect these fragile and unique environments.
We arrived at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge at lunch time and quickly settled into this fantastic setting, which is located in protected primary rainforest in the Danum River Preserve. The private chalets on stilts feature an outdoor bathtub overlooking the river, quiet and peaceful porch, and fantastic views. As I am writing this, small bright blue birds are flitting about. Certainly this is the most luxurious of the places we have stayed on the trip.
In the afternoon, we walked in the primary rainforest, which has large palm leaves, gorgeous ferns, gigantic elephant ear plants, and very tall trees, many of which are hundreds of years old. In the forest, we saw the smallest squirrel, the pygmy squirrel and a large pill millipede. We also had a troop of red leaf monkeys pass right over our heads. After returning to the lodge, we had a nice dinner and then a night drive, where we caught glimpses of the leopard cat and two types of flying squirrels.
Interesting Fact: Many trees here have buttresses, or winged areas a the base. Since the rich rainforest soil is very shallow, the trees do not develop deep tap roots. The buttresses help stabilize the trees.
We arrived at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge at lunch time and quickly settled into this fantastic setting, which is located in protected primary rainforest in the Danum River Preserve. The private chalets on stilts feature an outdoor bathtub overlooking the river, quiet and peaceful porch, and fantastic views. As I am writing this, small bright blue birds are flitting about. Certainly this is the most luxurious of the places we have stayed on the trip.
In the afternoon, we walked in the primary rainforest, which has large palm leaves, gorgeous ferns, gigantic elephant ear plants, and very tall trees, many of which are hundreds of years old. In the forest, we saw the smallest squirrel, the pygmy squirrel and a large pill millipede. We also had a troop of red leaf monkeys pass right over our heads. After returning to the lodge, we had a nice dinner and then a night drive, where we caught glimpses of the leopard cat and two types of flying squirrels.
Interesting Fact: Many trees here have buttresses, or winged areas a the base. Since the rich rainforest soil is very shallow, the trees do not develop deep tap roots. The buttresses help stabilize the trees.
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