Varanasi and the Ganges

The start and the end of our day could not be more different. We awoke in the barely habitable Ken’s Lodge, which reminded me a little of summer sleep away camp cabins and headed to Panna National Park by 6:30 am. No, we are not getting a lot of sleep on this trip. Ken’s Lodge included wildlife in the bathroom – we had a yellow frog. The power kept flicking on and off – inevitably when I was in the bathroom or taking a shower. We had a very quiet and very uneventful drive through the park, which was broken up by a short boat ride down the Ken River and a glimpse of a small crocodile. Then, we left Ken’s Lodge (no sorrow there) by ten and went to the airport in Khajaharo, which was surprisingly efficient. Kingfisher Airlines (named after a bird) was also very nice. Upon arrival to Varanasi, we were again submerged into chaos, as there was no system for claiming your bags except for people shoving, shouting in a lot of different languages, pushing and hitting your ankles with luggage carts. A group of Korean women were actually the most vicious. We finally got our bags and went to the hotel, the Taj Ganges, which is a very benign hotel, like any chain in the US.

We arrived at the hotel by 2:15 and were on the way to Saranath by three with our guide, Pradeep. Saranath is the place where Buddha gave his first sermon around 2,500 years ago. There is a hill like structure called Dhamekh Stupa that marks the spot of the sermon that was built at about 500 AD. The sight also has a descendant of the tree under which Buddha received enlightenment and a temple with lovely frescos depicting the life of Buddha. There was a festival there today, where they show a relic, a piece of the collarbone of Buddha, so the place was busy and decorated with flags. Unfortunately, we did not see the bone since it is apparently displayed in the morning. We then went to the museum, which has some very old Buddha statues and the “national symbol of India.” This is a sculpture that depicts a three lions, four other animals important to Buddha, and wheels that once was atop the Ashok pillar. This image is now found on the money in India. It is ironic that a strongly Buddhist symbol is on the money on an overwhelmingly Hindu country.

We then went back to Varanasi to the ghats along the river Ganges. Varanasi, also known as Benares, is a holy city where the “eternal light of Shiva intersects the earth.” Located at the intersection of two rivers, the earliest records of the city go back 8,000 years. Hindus believe that sins are erased by washing in the Ganges River. The ghats are steps that descend to the river against a background of 18th and 19th century temples and palaces. Many are used for cremations. The dead are brought to the river, water is splashed on them, then they are placed into the fires before the ashes are returned to the river. It is a little creepy that you can make out human parts in the fires and the place does not smell like burning flesh as much as I thought it would.

Today was a festival and the place was mobbed. There were thousands of people (I am not exaggerating) on the ghats, with music playing, shows and performances, fireworks and hundreds of candles lit along the steps. Due to traffic, we parked a few blocks away and walked to the steps. We don’t even want to think of the tobacco spit, urine (animal and human), excrement, and other gross stuff we walked through. Jon has declared that his shoes are staying here in India. We arrived at the waterfront just as it was getting dark and they were finishing setting up the candles in small clay pots. A helicopter passed overhead dropping millions of marigold petals, which fell like rain. We got on a wooden boat and cruised the Ganges, trying to take in the sights. It looked gorgeous all lit up with the candles. People float little cardboard boats with candles and marigold petals on the river. The buildings are draped with strings of electric lights. The fireworks light up the skies and candles and cremation fires light up the shores. The sounds of the people, music, bells, prayers, and fireworks are deafening. I am really not sure how to describe the experience….but hopefully, Jon’s photos will be able to give you some small taste.

Tomorrow, we are up at five in the morning and will return to the ghats for another look in different light and to watch devotees bathe in the river.